* When using the PVA bags:

First I put a layer of powders into the base of the PVA bag. Then put a single paste / dough ball / or fresh 20 millimetre balls or / 25 small 10 millimetre air-dried balls or a mixture of fresh and air-dried baits together in a PVA bag. I keep adding dry powder with a spoon as I do it from a tub, (over a tub and preferably out of the wind!)

I spoon the powders into the bag until it is nearly full, then the fix hook to the bag, either by putting the hook into it or tying the hook to it using fine PVA string. I then put extra dough over line above the hook and onto hook bait mould until everything is aligned so that the hook point is ‘proud’ and hook and bait is mostly obscured by paste and not able to tangle with the rig after casting out when the bag melts.

(Sometimes it is useful to put one bag inside another to begin with, if it is raining or very damp or you want to fish very deep water, or like to ‘pull your rig back’ after casting.

With this dry mix, paste / dough, PVA bag method, I use seriously sharpened hooks; and hook lengths normally of about 4 inches from hook to lead. Very sharp hooks tend to penetrate much deeper quicker upon first contact with the fish’s mouth. (I also prefer a hook with a long slim point that is curved back in towards the hook’s shank.

I will use a heavy lead if I can to set the hook upon fish picking up the bait. I use a ‘line clip’ on the rod at the reel to help ‘jolt’ the hook into position and sometimes use two with an initial ‘slack line’ specialist set-up. Often I use a with a tight line set-up with a very sensitive bite alarm setting. Fish can pick a rig up at many unexpected and angles and especially wise fish will often move parallel to your or towards you while trying to shake the hook

Many tight line takes with this set-up have simply been two bleeps or one bleep with a ‘rod knock’ but this is exciting and keeps you on your toes! On big fish waters where takes are not very frequent, a single bleep could often be a big fish! By keeping your eyes on the rod tip not the indicator on the line or ‘bobbin’ or swinger etc you will definitely hit more big fish – be alert and quick It takes practice, but once you are used to it you will enjoy fishing much more as this is exciting and ‘interactive’ stuff!

I always strike on rod knocks on this method. I’ve f

Well, the last fish I caught on the following baits and methods were a 42 pound carp and a 56 pound catfish. (A lake record at the time.) Such is the power of the baits and methods described and they are easy to make.

Described here are techniques for delivering extremely powerful catfish and carp attractors specifically to your hook baits. These methods leverage concentrated and powerful forms of amino acids; these are easily available from health food, chemist or drug stores.

‘Liquid protein’ amino acids supplements are use used for body building. Also used are vitamin / mineral supplements; these are excellent nutritional attractors too. Carp and catfish for example are especially ‘sensitive’ to the presence of amino acids in their environment; so let’s exploit this to the ‘max!’

The power this bait method has, is that the bait itself acts purely as a ‘carrier’ for attractors. Amino acids and mineral salts are two of the most effective fish attractors of them all as have been proven by tank tests by American and Japanese scientists for example.

These 2 attractors among other very special attractor / fish ‘olfactory’ receptor site stimulators are concentrated in a tight area around your hook bait and but gradually spread out through the water creating paths of attraction and attractor clouds in surrounding water layers and currents.

* Special ingredients to use:

Quite in contrast to the usual maize / fish meals / grits / oats / or soya bean meals etc, you may be familiar with, this type of bait is FAR more powerful; with good reason!

This bait mix uses many extraordinary predigested extracts to draw stimulated fish into your bait vicinity. These are extremely attractive owing to their high levels and broad profiles of ‘biologically digestible’ available amino acids, which are very water soluble. ( As opposed to ‘whole’ protein food ingredients, like standard cheaper fish meal; with much less water solubility and digestibility.)

Another great advantage of these ingredients is that far more of your bait when consumed is absorbed straight through the fish gut, and the fish get the benefits of their food much quicker than with whole foods which may take many many hours and days to ‘digest’ for fish to gain and ‘feel useful benefits and energy.

(Just like we ‘feel’ different effects and benefits from our individual foods; some drain our energy after eating and make us feel lethargic – others give us a ‘buzz’ some short-term other longer term…)

* Great proven examples of carp stimulating ingredients are:

• Green and blue lipped mussel extracts.

• Predigested fishmeal.

• Predigested lobster extract.

• Predigested fish protein.

Plus many others available from premier specialist carp bait suppliers. (New ones are being developed and ‘discovered’ by fishermen all the time!)

It is both interesting and very important to notice that these kinds of bait extracts and ingredients are high in digestible proteins / soluble amino acids and are also often very high in betaine. (Not betaine hydrochloride - that is the ‘salt form.’

Amino acids, with betaine and mineral salts and vitamins in combination are extremely potent CARP AND CATFISH attractors / feeding stimulators. (Please note; do not be confused – betaine is an ‘alkaloid’ not an amino acid hint hint…)

* A few other examples of powerful ingredients used mixed in ‘damp powder’ in PVA bags, or in combinations in dough / pastes:

1. Predigested liver extract.

2. Squid extract powder.

3. Brewers yeast powders (contain chitin, betaine, carp essential B vitamins etc.)

4. Predigested brewers yeast.

5. Yeast extract.

6. Molasses (contains betaine plus important vitamins minerals, traces etc. A great 7. sweetener.)

8. Chilli powders; ‘protein receptor positive.’ Plus they ‘react beneficially’ with betaine.

9. Black pepper powder. (And essential oil.)

10. Hot curry powders.

11. Corn steep liquor powder or liquid.

12. Coarsely liquidized sweet corn or soaked and cooked maize or grits.

13. Parmesan cheese powder.

14. Garlic granules.

15. Brown sugar.

16. Honey.

17. Milk powders.

18. Pre-germinated and cooked wild bird food seeds.

19. Finely crushed nuts / peanuts (soaked in liquid amino acid compound)

20. ‘Samples’ of boilie baits you are going to use as hook baits, plus on hard fished pressured waters, samples of recent ‘popular’ boilies being used by other anglers at the water. These are all pre-soaked and frozen in liquid protein and vitamin / mineral supplements (or similar) compounds. These are then chopped-up.

21. Halibut rearing pellets; (Very coarsely ground-up.)

22. Crushed hemp seed.

23. Pre-germinated and cooked hempseed.

24. Niger seed.

25. Sesame seeds.

26. Peanut butter.

27. Mixed oils e.g. ground nut oil / pure salmon oil / hemp oil / cod liver oil etc.

(* This list is not exhaustive but merely a representative one.)

I prefer to use damp powders and fresh paste / dough baits in PVA bags rather than conventional boilies, because you have great control over their power and different effects. These release all kinds of ‘attractors’ and feeding triggers into the water extremely effectively, whereas with boilies this effect is partially ‘locked-up’ owing to the boiling process.

I will not go much into the amazing stimulatory benefits, deep effects, and inter-relationships secrets between many of the above ingredients listed here! They work!

All of the above used in different combinations and quantities provide a great base for a mixed ‘free’ bait dough or paste bait especially and especially effective when used in water soluble ‘free bait ‘ delivering poly vinyl alcohol bags (‘PVA’.)

However; this mixture can be bound together using anything from corn flour to breadcrumbs, wholemeal flour and oats, to a carp boilie base mix etc. This can then be used as ‘ground bait’ or chum for amazing results. It can also be made as a ‘damp powder to fill-up PVA bags or in PVA bags with paste / doughs of different types.’ Or as an added attractor powder using whole or chopped boilies, or with pellets of different types in a bag.

I sometimes like to make a dough paste from the above list including milk powders and predigested fish protein, and brewers yeast powders and liver powders, for example (preferably predigested) bound by wholemeal flour with added liquid amino acids compound. (But not using water, or eggs.) I add a small amount of cod liver oil, sesame seed oil, pure salmon oil, hemp oil, or crushed nut oil too.

Add yeast extract and then add a small amount of tinned mackerel finely chopped up and juice from tinned salmon and even address some tinned tuna. If fish loving predators like pike or gars etc are a problem, cut down on the tinned fish and add more milk powders etc. For carp for example add perhaps some more “Robin Red” powder, curry or chilli powders.

I leave this ‘wet paste / dough mix’ to soak up the liquid attractors overnight in a plastic sealed tub in the fridge. Then I add extra milk, liver and yeast powders, until the mix has a firm mouldable consistency. Ideally it would feel oily on the surface!

This paste or dough is specifically for the purpose of fast maximal attraction to your hook baits. This dough will be used in PVA bags, and as hook baits and even ‘free baits.’ (Very effective!)

I prefer to use a heavy lead rig with a short length of about 4 to 5 inches. On the ‘hair rig’ I use 2 baits; one a sinking bait, the other a ‘pop-up’ buoyant bait on the same short hair. (It could be a special pellet shaped bait or a disc, triangle or square or odd shape.)

I severely sharpen my hooks to almost past ‘needle’ sharp – but not too much! ( I have lost fish where the hook point has actually bent outwards! Doing this definitely multiplies your number of ‘takes!’

The above paste / dough / examples of ‘packbait’ make excellent hook and bait ‘wraps.’ This is where dough is wrapped onto the bait and or hook, to multiply the pulling power of the hook bait and obscures the hook except the point (for pressured waters this is exceptional and very effective for the ‘wiser’ more rig shy big carp – and big catfish too!

* Alternative ways to use dough paste in PVA bags:

• Use ‘air dried paste / dough balls of 10 millimetre diameter for example; these dissolve fast releasing very fast acting attraction – fantastic!)

• Use fresh or defrosted paste / dough balls used as 30 millimetre balls or pieces on their own or with other sizes / shapes mixed – this IS different; used in conjunction with a ‘dry mixture’ made from the above list of ingredients, the varied attractor leak-off and power is just awesome and has accounted for many of my most memorable catches!

• Use a single large ball of paste / dough the size of a mandarin or small apple. Used on its own or in combination with a ‘dry mixture’ this is a completely different method of attraction. This also has produced some incredible big fish for me catches; I believe it gives more time for the bigger fish to compete and inspect it before taking the hook bait!

All these paste / doughs can be semi ‘air-dried’ or rolled in powders to make them dry enough not to prematurely melt the PVA bags.

I often roll these pastes in dry powders ingredients mixture until the exterior is completely covered. I prepare hook baits like this in advance in advance but use added amino acid and mineral / vitamin soaks. I air dry these baits, then re-hydrate them in the soak and coat them with a mixture of attractive powders.

* When using the PVA bags:

First I put a layer of powders into the base of the PVA bag. Then put a single paste / dough ball / or fresh 20 millimetre balls or / 25 small 10 millimetre air-dried balls or a mixture of fresh and air-dried baits together in a PVA bag. I keep adding dry powder with a spoon as I do it from a tub, (over a tub and preferably out of the wind!)

I spoon the powders into the bag until it is nearly full, then the fix hook to the bag, either by putting the hook into it or tying the hook to it using fine PVA string. I then put extra dough over line above the hook and onto hook bait mould until everything is aligned so that the hook point is ‘proud’ and hook and bait is mostly obscured by paste and not able to tangle with the rig after casting out when the bag melts.

(Sometimes it is useful to put one bag inside another to begin with, if it is raining or very damp or you want to fish very deep water, or like to ‘pull your rig back’ after casting.

With this dry mix, paste / dough, PVA bag method, I use seriously sharpened hooks; and hook lengths normally of about 4 inches from hook to lead. Very sharp hooks tend to penetrate much deeper quicker upon first contact with the fish’s mouth. (I also prefer a hook with a long slim point that is curved back in towards the hook’s shank.

I will use a heavy lead if I can to set the hook upon fish picking up the bait. I use a ‘line clip’ on the rod at the reel to help ‘jolt’ the hook into position and sometimes use two with an initial ‘slack line’ specialist set-up. Often I use a with a tight line set-up with a very sensitive bite alarm setting. Fish can pick a rig up at many unexpected and angles and especially wise fish will often move parallel to your or towards you while trying to shake the hook

Many tight line takes with this set-up have simply been two bleeps or one bleep with a ‘rod knock’ but this is exciting and keeps you on your toes! On big fish waters where takes are not very frequent, a single bleep could often be a big fish! By keeping your eyes on the rod tip not the indicator on the line or ‘bobbin’ or swinger etc you will definitely hit more big fish – be alert and quick It takes practice, but once you are used to it you will enjoy fishing much more as this is exciting and ‘interactive’ stuff!

I always strike on rod knocks on this method. I’ve fo

(Just like we ‘feel’ different effects and benefits from our individual foods; some drain our energy after eating and make us feel lethargic – others give us a ‘buzz’ some short-term other longer term…)

* Great proven examples of carp stimulating ingredients are:

• Green and blue lipped mussel extracts.

• Predigested fishmeal.

• Predigested lobster extract.

• Predigested fish protein.

Plus many others available from premier specialist carp bait suppliers. (New ones are being developed and ‘discovered’ by fishermen all the time!)

It is both interesting and very important to notice that these kinds of bait extracts and ingredients are high in digestible proteins / soluble amino acids and are also often very high in betaine. (Not betaine hydrochloride - that is the ‘salt form.’

Amino acids, with betaine and mineral salts and vitamins in combination are extremely potent CARP AND CATFISH attractors / feeding stimulators. (Please note; do not be confused – betaine is an ‘alkaloid’ not an amino acid hint hint…)

* A few other examples of powerful ingredients used mixed in ‘damp powder’ in PVA bags, or in combinations in dough / pastes:

1. Predigested liver extract.

2. Squid extract powder.

3. Brewers yeast powders (contain chitin, betaine, carp essential B vitamins etc.)

4. Predigested brewers yeast.

5. Yeast extract.

6. Molasses (contains betaine plus important vitamins minerals, traces etc. A great 7. sweetener.)

8. Chilli powders; ‘protein receptor positive.’ Plus they ‘react beneficially’ with betaine.

9. Black pepper powder. (And essential oil.)

10. Hot curry powders.

11. Corn steep liquor powder or liquid.

12. Coarsely liquidized sweet corn or soaked and cooked maize or grits.

13. Parmesan cheese powder.

14. Garlic granules.

15. Brown sugar.

16. Honey.

17. Milk powders.

18. Pre-germinated and cooked wild bird food seeds.

19. Finely crushed nuts / peanuts (soaked in liquid amino acid compound)

20. ‘Samples’ of boilie baits you are going to use as hook baits, plus on hard fished pressured waters, samples of recent ‘popular’ boilies being used by other anglers at the water. These are all pre-soaked and frozen in liquid protein and vitamin / mineral supplements (or similar) compounds. These are then chopped-up.

21. Halibut rearing pellets; (Very coarsely ground-up.)

22. Crushed hemp seed.

23. Pre-germinated and cooked hempseed.

24. Niger seed.

25. Sesame seeds.

26. Peanut butter.

27. Mixed oils e.g. ground nut oil / pure salmon oil / hemp oil / cod liver oil etc.

(* This list is not exhaustive but merely a representative one.)

I prefer to use damp powders and fresh paste / dough baits in PVA bags rather than conventional boilies, because you have great control over their power and different effects. These release all kinds of ‘attractors’ and feeding triggers into the water extremely effectively, whereas with boilies this effect is partially ‘locked-up’ owing to the boiling process.

I will not go much into the amazing stimulatory benefits, deep effects, and inter-relationships secrets between many of the above ingredients listed here! They work!

All of the above used in different combinations and quantities provide a great base for a mixed ‘free’ bait dough or paste bait especially and especially effective when used in water soluble ‘free bait ‘ delivering poly vinyl alcohol bags (‘PVA’.)

However; this mixture can be bound together using anything from corn flour to breadcrumbs, wholemeal flour and oats, to a carp boilie base mix etc. This can then be used as ‘ground bait’ or chum for amazing results. It can also be made as a ‘damp powder to fill-up PVA bags or in PVA bags with paste / doughs of different types.’ Or as an added attractor powder using whole or chopped boilies, or with pellets of different types in a bag.

I sometimes like to make a dough paste from the above list including milk powders and predigested fish protein, and brewers yeast powders and liver powders, for example (preferably predigested) bound by wholemeal flour with added liquid amino acids compound. (But not using water, or eggs.) I add a small amount of cod liver oil, sesame seed oil, pure salmon oil, hemp oil, or crushed nut oil too.

Add yeast extract and then add a small amount of tinned mackerel finely chopped up and juice from tinned salmon and even address some tinned tuna. If fish loving predators like pike or gars etc are a problem, cut down on the tinned fish and add more milk powders etc. For carp for example add perhaps some more “Robin Red” powder, curry or chilli powders.

I leave this ‘wet paste / dough mix’ to soak up the liquid attractors overnight in a plastic sealed tub in the fridge. Then I add extra milk, liver and yeast powders, until the mix has a firm mouldable consistency. Ideally it would feel oily on the surface!

This paste or dough is specifically for the purpose of fast maximal attraction to your hook baits. This dough will be used in PVA bags, and as hook baits and even ‘free baits.’ (Very effective!)

I prefer to use a heavy lead rig with a short length of about 4 to 5 inches. On the ‘hair rig’ I use 2 baits; one a sinking bait, the other a ‘pop-up’ buoyant bait on the same short hair. (It could be a special pellet shaped bait or a disc, triangle or square or odd shape.)

I severely sharpen my hooks to almost past ‘needle’ sharp – but not too much! ( I have lost fish where the hook point has actually bent outwards! Doing this definitely multiplies your number of ‘takes!’

The above paste / dough / examples of ‘packbait’ make excellent hook and bait ‘wraps.’ This is where dough is wrapped onto the bait and or hook, to multiply the pulling power of the hook bait and obscures the hook except the point (for pressured waters this is exceptional and very effective for the ‘wiser’ more rig shy big carp – and big catfish too!

* Alternative ways to use dough paste in PVA bags:

• Use ‘air dried paste / dough balls of 10 millimetre diameter for example; these dissolve fast releasing very fast acting attraction – fantastic!)

• Use fresh or defrosted paste / dough balls used as 30 millimetre balls or pieces on their own or with other sizes / shapes mixed – this IS different; used in conjunction with a ‘dry mixture’ made from the above list of ingredients, the varied attractor leak-off and power is just awesome and has accounted for many of my most memorable catches!

• Use a single large ball of paste / dough the size of a mandarin or small apple. Used on its own or in combination with a ‘dry mixture’ this is a completely different method of attraction. This also has produced some incredible big fish for me catches; I believe it gives more time for the bigger fish to compete and inspect it before taking the hook bait!

All these paste / doughs can be semi ‘air-dried’ or rolled in powders to make them dry enough not to prematurely melt the PVA bags.

I often roll these pastes in dry powders ingredients mixture until the exterior is completely covered. I prepare hook baits like this in advance in advance but use added amino acid and mineral / vitamin soaks. I air dry these baits, then re-hydrate them in the soak and coat them with a mixture of attractive powders.

* When using the PVA bags:

First I put a layer of powders into the base of the PVA bag. Then put a single paste / dough ball / or fresh 20 millimetre balls or / 25 small 10 millimetre air-dried balls or a mixture of fresh and air-dried baits together in a PVA bag. I keep adding dry powder with a spoon as I do it from a tub, (over a tub and preferably out of the wind!)

I spoon the powders into the bag until it is nearly full, then the fix hook to the bag, either by putting the hook into it or tying the hook to it using fine PVA string. I then put extra dough over line above the hook and onto hook bait mould until everything is aligned so that the hook point is ‘proud’ and hook and bait is mostly obscured by paste and not able to tangle with the rig after casting out when the bag melts.

(Sometimes it is useful to put one bag inside another to begin with, if it is raining or very damp or you want to fish very deep water, or like to ‘pull your rig back’ after casting.

With this dry mix, paste / dough, PVA bag method, I use seriously sharpened hooks; and hook lengths normally of about 4 inches from hook to lead. Very sharp hooks tend to penetrate much deeper quicker upon first contact with the fish’s mouth. (I also prefer a hook with a long slim point that is curved back in towards the hook’s shank.

I will use a heavy lead if I can to set the hook upon fish picking up the bait. I use a ‘line clip’ on the rod at the reel to help ‘jolt’ the hook into position and sometimes use two with an initial ‘slack line’ specialist set-up. Often I use a with a tight line set-up with a very sensitive bite alarm setting. Fish can pick a rig up at many unexpected and angles and especially wise fish will often move parallel to your or towards you while trying to shake the hook

Many tight line takes with this set-up have simply been two bleeps or one bleep with a ‘rod knock’ but this is exciting and keeps you on your toes! On big fish waters where takes are not very frequent, a single bleep could often be a big fish! By keeping your eyes on the rod tip not the indicator on the line or ‘bobbin’ or swinger etc you will definitely hit more big fish – be alert and quick It takes practice, but once you are used to it you will enjoy fishing much more as this is exciting and ‘interactive’ stuff!

I always strike on rod knocks on this method. I’ve f

22. Crushed hemp seed.

23. Pre-germinated and cooked hempseed.

24. Niger seed.

25. Sesame seeds.

26. Peanut butter.

27. Mixed oils e.g. ground nut oil / pure salmon oil / hemp oil / cod liver oil etc.

(* This list is not exhaustive but merely a representative one.)

I prefer to use damp powders and fresh paste / dough baits in PVA bags rather than conventional boilies, because you have great control over their power and different effects. These release all kinds of ‘attractors’ and feeding triggers into the water extremely effectively, whereas with boilies this effect is partially ‘locked-up’ owing to the boiling process.

I will not go much into the amazing stimulatory benefits, deep effects, and inter-relationships secrets between many of the above ingredients listed here! They work!

All of the above used in different combinations and quantities provide a great base for a mixed ‘free’ bait dough or paste bait especially and especially effective when used in water soluble ‘free bait ‘ delivering poly vinyl alcohol bags (‘PVA’.)

However; this mixture can be bound together using anything from corn flour to breadcrumbs, wholemeal flour and oats, to a carp boilie base mix etc. This can then be used as ‘ground bait’ or chum for amazing results. It can also be made as a ‘damp powder to fill-up PVA bags or in PVA bags with paste / doughs of different types.’ Or as an added attractor powder using whole or chopped boilies, or with pellets of different types in a bag.

I sometimes like to make a dough paste from the above list including milk powders and predigested fish protein, and brewers yeast powders and liver powders, for example (preferably predigested) bound by wholemeal flour with added liquid amino acids compound. (But not using water, or eggs.) I add a small amount of cod liver oil, sesame seed oil, pure salmon oil, hemp oil, or crushed nut oil too.

Add yeast extract and then add a small amount of tinned mackerel finely chopped up and juice from tinned salmon and even address some tinned tuna. If fish loving predators like pike or gars etc are a problem, cut down on the tinned fish and add more milk powders etc. For carp for example add perhaps some more “Robin Red” powder, curry or chilli powders.

I leave this ‘wet paste / dough mix’ to soak up the liquid attractors overnight in a plastic sealed tub in the fridge. Then I add extra milk, liver and yeast powders, until the mix has a firm mouldable consistency. Ideally it would feel oily on the surface!

This paste or dough is specifically for the purpose of fast maximal attraction to your hook baits. This dough will be used in PVA bags, and as hook baits and even ‘free baits.’ (Very effective!)

I prefer to use a heavy lead rig with a short length of about 4 to 5 inches. On the ‘hair rig’ I use 2 baits; one a sinking bait, the other a ‘pop-up’ buoyant bait on the same short hair. (It could be a special pellet shaped bait or a disc, triangle or square or odd shape.)

I severely sharpen my hooks to almost past ‘needle’ sharp – but not too much! ( I have lost fish where the hook point has actually bent outwards! Doing this definitely multiplies your number of ‘takes!’

The above paste / dough / examples of ‘packbait’ make excellent hook and bait ‘wraps.’ This is where dough is wrapped onto the bait and or hook, to multiply the pulling power of the hook bait and obscures the hook except the point (for pressured waters this is exceptional and very effective for the ‘wiser’ more rig shy big carp – and big catfish too!

* Alternative ways to use dough paste in PVA bags:

• Use ‘air dried paste / dough balls of 10 millimetre diameter for example; these dissolve fast releasing very fast acting attraction – fantastic!)

• Use fresh or defrosted paste / dough balls used as 30 millimetre balls or pieces on their own or with other sizes / shapes mixed – this IS different; used in conjunction with a ‘dry mixture’ made from the above list of ingredients, the varied attractor leak-off and power is just awesome and has accounted for many of my most memorable catches!

• Use a single large ball of paste / dough the size of a mandarin or small apple. Used on its own or in combination with a ‘dry mixture’ this is a completely different method of attraction. This also has produced some incredible big fish for me catches; I believe it gives more time for the bigger fish to compete and inspect it before taking the hook bait!

All these paste / doughs can be semi ‘air-dried’ or rolled in powders to make them dry enough not to prematurely melt the PVA bags.

I often roll these pastes in dry powders ingredients mixture until the exterior is completely covered. I prepare hook baits like this in advance in advance but use added amino acid and mineral / vitamin soaks. I air dry these baits, then re-hydrate them in the soak and coat them with a mixture of attractive powders.

* When using the PVA bags:

First I put a layer of powders into the base of the PVA bag. Then put a single paste / dough ball / or fresh 20 millimetre balls or / 25 small 10 millimetre air-dried balls or a mixture of fresh and air-dried baits together in a PVA bag. I keep adding dry powder with a spoon as I do it from a tub, (over a tub and preferably out of the wind!)

I spoon the powders into the bag until it is nearly full, then the fix hook to the bag, either by putting the hook into it or tying the hook to it using fine PVA string. I then put extra dough over line above the hook and onto hook bait mould until everything is aligned so that the hook point is ‘proud’ and hook and bait is mostly obscured by paste and not able to tangle with the rig after casting out when the bag melts.

(Sometimes it is useful to put one bag inside another to begin with, if it is raining or very damp or you want to fish very deep water, or like to ‘pull your rig back’ after casting.

With this dry mix, paste / dough, PVA bag method, I use seriously sharpened hooks; and hook lengths normally of about 4 inches from hook to lead. Very sharp hooks tend to penetrate much deeper quicker upon first contact with the fish’s mouth. (I also prefer a hook with a long slim point that is curved back in towards the hook’s shank.

I will use a heavy lead if I can to set the hook upon fish picking up the bait. I use a ‘line clip’ on the rod at the reel to help ‘jolt’ the hook into position and sometimes use two with an initial ‘slack line’ specialist set-up. Often I use a with a tight line set-up with a very sensitive bite alarm setting. Fish can pick a rig up at many unexpected and angles and especially wise fish will often move parallel to your or towards you while trying to shake the hook

Many tight line takes with this set-up have simply been two bleeps or one bleep with a ‘rod knock’ but this is exciting and keeps you on your toes! On big fish waters where takes are not very frequent, a single bleep could often be a big fish! By keeping your eyes on the rod tip not the indicator on the line or ‘bobbin’ or swinger etc you will definitely hit more big fish – be alert and quick It takes practice, but once you are used to it you will enjoy fishing much more as this is exciting and ‘interactive’ stuff!

I always strike on rod knocks on this method. I’ve f

This paste or dough is specifically for the purpose of fast maximal attraction to your hook baits. This dough will be used in PVA bags, and as hook baits and even ‘free baits.’ (Very effective!)

I prefer to use a heavy lead rig with a short length of about 4 to 5 inches. On the ‘hair rig’ I use 2 baits; one a sinking bait, the other a ‘pop-up’ buoyant bait on the same short hair. (It could be a special pellet shaped bait or a disc, triangle or square or odd shape.)

I severely sharpen my hooks to almost past ‘needle’ sharp – but not too much! ( I have lost fish where the hook point has actually bent outwards! Doing this definitely multiplies your number of ‘takes!’

The above paste / dough / examples of ‘packbait’ make excellent hook and bait ‘wraps.’ This is where dough is wrapped onto the bait and or hook, to multiply the pulling power of the hook bait and obscures the hook except the point (for pressured waters this is exceptional and very effective for the ‘wiser’ more rig shy big carp – and big catfish too!

* Alternative ways to use dough paste in PVA bags:

• Use ‘air dried paste / dough balls of 10 millimetre diameter for example; these dissolve fast releasing very fast acting attraction – fantastic!)

• Use fresh or defrosted paste / dough balls used as 30 millimetre balls or pieces on their own or with other sizes / shapes mixed – this IS different; used in conjunction with a ‘dry mixture’ made from the above list of ingredients, the varied attractor leak-off and power is just awesome and has accounted for many of my most memorable catches!

• Use a single large ball of paste / dough the size of a mandarin or small apple. Used on its own or in combination with a ‘dry mixture’ this is a completely different method of attraction. This also has produced some incredible big fish for me catches; I believe it gives more time for the bigger fish to compete and inspect it before taking the hook bait!

All these paste / doughs can be semi ‘air-dried’ or rolled in powders to make them dry enough not to prematurely melt the PVA bags.

I often roll these pastes in dry powders ingredients mixture until the exterior is completely covered. I prepare hook baits like this in advance in advance but use added amino acid and mineral / vitamin soaks. I air dry these baits, then re-hydrate them in the soak and coat them with a mixture of attractive powders.

* When using the PVA bags:

First I put a layer of powders into the base of the PVA bag. Then put a single paste / dough ball / or fresh 20 millimetre balls or / 25 small 10 millimetre air-dried balls or a mixture of fresh and air-dried baits together in a PVA bag. I keep adding dry powder with a spoon as I do it from a tub, (over a tub and preferably out of the wind!)

I spoon the powders into the bag until it is nearly full, then the fix hook to the bag, either by putting the hook into it or tying the hook to it using fine PVA string. I then put extra dough over line above the hook and onto hook bait mould until everything is aligned so that the hook point is ‘proud’ and hook and bait is mostly obscured by paste and not able to tangle with the rig after casting out when the bag melts.

(Sometimes it is useful to put one bag inside another to begin with, if it is raining or very damp or you want to fish very deep water, or like to ‘pull your rig back’ after casting.

With this dry mix, paste / dough, PVA bag method, I use seriously sharpened hooks; and hook lengths normally of about 4 inches from hook to lead. Very sharp hooks tend to penetrate much deeper quicker upon first contact with the fish’s mouth. (I also prefer a hook with a long slim point that is curved back in towards the hook’s shank.

I will use a heavy lead if I can to set the hook upon fish picking up the bait. I use a ‘line clip’ on the rod at the reel to help ‘jolt’ the hook into position and sometimes use two with an initial ‘slack line’ specialist set-up. Often I use a with a tight line set-up with a very sensitive bite alarm setting. Fish can pick a rig up at many unexpected and angles and especially wise fish will often move parallel to your or towards you while trying to shake the hook

Many tight line takes with this set-up have simply been two bleeps or one bleep with a ‘rod knock’ but this is exciting and keeps you on your toes! On big fish waters where takes are not very frequent, a single bleep could often be a big fish! By keeping your eyes on the rod tip not the indicator on the line or ‘bobbin’ or swinger etc you will definitely hit more big fish – be alert and quick It takes practice, but once you are used to it you will enjoy fishing much more as this is exciting and ‘interactive’ stuff!

I always strike on rod knocks on this method. I’ve f

* When using the PVA bags:

First I put a layer of powders into the base of the PVA bag. Then put a single paste / dough ball / or fresh 20 millimetre balls or / 25 small 10 millimetre air-dried balls or a mixture of fresh and air-dried baits together in a PVA bag. I keep adding dry powder with a spoon as I do it from a tub, (over a tub and preferably out of the wind!)

I spoon the powders into the bag until it is nearly full, then the fix hook to the bag, either by putting the hook into it or tying the hook to it using fine PVA string. I then put extra dough over line above the hook and onto hook bait mould until everything is aligned so that the hook point is ‘proud’ and hook and bait is mostly obscured by paste and not able to tangle with the rig after casting out when the bag melts.

(Sometimes it is useful to put one bag inside another to begin with, if it is raining or very damp or you want to fish very deep water, or like to ‘pull your rig back’ after casting.

With this dry mix, paste / dough, PVA bag method, I use seriously sharpened hooks; and hook lengths normally of about 4 inches from hook to lead. Very sharp hooks tend to penetrate much deeper quicker upon first contact with the fish’s mouth. (I also prefer a hook with a long slim point that is curved back in towards the hook’s shank.

I will use a heavy lead if I can to set the hook upon fish picking up the bait. I use a ‘line clip’ on the rod at the reel to help ‘jolt’ the hook into position and sometimes use two with an initial ‘slack line’ specialist set-up. Often I use a with a tight line set-up with a very sensitive bite alarm setting. Fish can pick a rig up at many unexpected and angles and especially wise fish will often move parallel to your or towards you while trying to shake the hook

Many tight line takes with this set-up have simply been two bleeps or one bleep with a ‘rod knock’ but this is exciting and keeps you on your toes! On big fish waters where takes are not very frequent, a single bleep could often be a big fish! By keeping your eyes on the rod tip not the indicator on the line or ‘bobbin’ or swinger etc you will definitely hit more big fish – be alert and quick It takes practice, but once you are used to it you will enjoy fishing much more as this is exciting and ‘interactive’ stuff!

I always strike on rod knocks on this method. I’ve found during most sessions, it is very worth the effort. These are often the much bigger old wary fish playing their games of ‘get off the hook fast!’

So-called ‘Big names’ are not the only ones who can catch BIG fish consistently – I hope this article helps you too!

The author has many more fishing and bait ‘edges’ up his sleeve. Every single one can have a huge impact on catches. (Warning: This article is protected by copyright, but reprints with a link are OK.)