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    lm between the ground and slab of concrete. Be sure to test moisture levels with a moisture meter. Don't use any type of sealant on top of the concrete.

    • Plywood- makes a suitable sub-floor as long as it is at least 5/8" thick. Tongue and groove, exterior grade plywood that is screwed or nailed every 6 inches along seams, joist and field areas will do nicely.

    • Tile- If all tiles are in place, simply clean to remove all wax build up. If th

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    Wondering if you can install wood floor planks yourself? If you've got some carpentry know how and tool skills, the answer is yes! Installing hardwood floors is easier than ever with manufactured, ready to install, wood floor planks.

    First things first: let's go over a list of tools and materials that you'll need. There are a few different methods that can be used to install wood floor planks, each of which require specific tools. First we'll cover the general tools you'll need regardless of the technique utilized.

    • Hammer
    • Finishing nails
    • Power drill
    • Tape measure
    • Center punch
    • Jig saw or band saw for circular cuts
    • Table saw or chop saw
    • Combination style saw blade
    • Chalk line
    • Broom
    • Tapping block
    • Last board puller

    There are three main methods for affixing the wood floor planks to the sub-surface. One can use staples, glue or nails. If you plan to use the staple method, you will need to rent or purchase a pneumatic stapler, air hose and compressor, as well as the proper size staple for the wood flooring that you will be installing.

    If you opt for gluing the wood flooring, you will need to purchase some type of adhesive suitable for the application, as well as a V-notch and masking tape. For the nailing method, it is recommended that you use some type of nail gun to speed things along. The specifics on adhesives and nail or staple sizes should be clarified according to the manufacturer.

    Sub-Floor and Project Site Preparation

    Though sub-floor preparation varies from material to material, the main idea is to make sure that this underlying area is sound and even. Now some particulars about specific sub-floor materials:

    • Concrete- should be level and smooth with a 6 mil polyethylene film between the ground and slab of concrete. Be sure to test moisture levels with a moisture meter. Don't use any type of sealant on top of the concrete.

    • Plywood- makes a suitable sub-floor as long as it is at least 5/8" thick. Tongue and groove, exterior grade plywood that is screwed or nailed every 6 inches along seams, joist and field areas will do nicely.

    • Tile- If all tiles are in place, simply clean to remove all wax build up. If the

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    er the general tools you'll need regardless of the technique utilized.

    • Hammer
    • Finishing nails
    • Power drill
    • Tape measure
    • Center punch
    • Jig saw or band saw for circular cuts
    • Table saw or chop saw
    • Combination style saw blade
    • Chalk line
    • Broom
    • Tapping block
    • Last board puller

    There are three main methods for affixing the wood floor planks to the sub-surface. One can use staples, glue or nails. If you plan to use the staple method, you will need to rent or purchase a pneumatic stapler, air hose and compressor, as well as the proper size staple for the wood flooring that you will be installing.

    If you opt for gluing the wood flooring, you will need to purchase some type of adhesive suitable for the application, as well as a V-notch and masking tape. For the nailing method, it is recommended that you use some type of nail gun to speed things along. The specifics on adhesives and nail or staple sizes should be clarified according to the manufacturer.

    Sub-Floor and Project Site Preparation

    Though sub-floor preparation varies from material to material, the main idea is to make sure that this underlying area is sound and even. Now some particulars about specific sub-floor materials:

    • Concrete- should be level and smooth with a 6 mil polyethylene film between the ground and slab of concrete. Be sure to test moisture levels with a moisture meter. Don't use any type of sealant on top of the concrete.

    • Plywood- makes a suitable sub-floor as long as it is at least 5/8" thick. Tongue and groove, exterior grade plywood that is screwed or nailed every 6 inches along seams, joist and field areas will do nicely.

    • Tile- If all tiles are in place, simply clean to remove all wax build up. If th

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    staples, glue or nails. If you plan to use the staple method, you will need to rent or purchase a pneumatic stapler, air hose and compressor, as well as the proper size staple for the wood flooring that you will be installing.

    If you opt for gluing the wood flooring, you will need to purchase some type of adhesive suitable for the application, as well as a V-notch and masking tape. For the nailing method, it is recommended that you use some type of nail gun to speed things along. The specifics on adhesives and nail or staple sizes should be clarified according to the manufacturer.

    Sub-Floor and Project Site Preparation

    Though sub-floor preparation varies from material to material, the main idea is to make sure that this underlying area is sound and even. Now some particulars about specific sub-floor materials:

    • Concrete- should be level and smooth with a 6 mil polyethylene film between the ground and slab of concrete. Be sure to test moisture levels with a moisture meter. Don't use any type of sealant on top of the concrete.

    • Plywood- makes a suitable sub-floor as long as it is at least 5/8" thick. Tongue and groove, exterior grade plywood that is screwed or nailed every 6 inches along seams, joist and field areas will do nicely.

    • Tile- If all tiles are in place, simply clean to remove all wax build up. If th

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    f nail gun to speed things along. The specifics on adhesives and nail or staple sizes should be clarified according to the manufacturer.

    Sub-Floor and Project Site Preparation

    Though sub-floor preparation varies from material to material, the main idea is to make sure that this underlying area is sound and even. Now some particulars about specific sub-floor materials:

    • Concrete- should be level and smooth with a 6 mil polyethylene film between the ground and slab of concrete. Be sure to test moisture levels with a moisture meter. Don't use any type of sealant on top of the concrete.

    • Plywood- makes a suitable sub-floor as long as it is at least 5/8" thick. Tongue and groove, exterior grade plywood that is screwed or nailed every 6 inches along seams, joist and field areas will do nicely.

    • Tile- If all tiles are in place, simply clean to remove all wax build up. If th

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    lm between the ground and slab of concrete. Be sure to test moisture levels with a moisture meter. Don't use any type of sealant on top of the concrete.

    • Plywood- makes a suitable sub-floor as long as it is at least 5/8" thick. Tongue and groove, exterior grade plywood that is screwed or nailed every 6 inches along seams, joist and field areas will do nicely.

    • Tile- If all tiles are in place, simply clean to remove all wax build up. If there are many loose tiles, build an underlay of plywood or other substance directly on top of the tiles.

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