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Added for You - How to Choose the Right Gun Safe
Many people believe that religion was created by man and actually man created God in his own mind. Why would man create God? Perhaps because mankind could not answer certain questions such as;Why am I here? How did all this get here? How should I live my life while I am here? What will happen to me when I die? What will happen when all this ends? If someone could answer these questions they would be held in high esteem and be looked up to
Thicker is better—and not just on the door. Look for a safe with a good metal thickness—no thinner than 10-guage—all around. Many safe manufacturers will produce safes with thick doors but thin bodies. A safe cracker with any skill will know which safes are vulnerable in the body—and will bypass the door to go in through the side or roof of the safe. Make sure your sides, top and bottom are just as thick and strong as your safe’s door.
Hinges should be on the inside. Exposed hinges are another point of attack for anyone trying to break into your safe.
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Most safes on the market today will do a good job of protecting your guns from curious children. What all of them won’t do well is protect your guns from burglars. Many criminals get their hands on weapons by breaking into the homes of known gun owners and stealing them.
When protecting your guns from theft, all safes are not created equal. Here’s what to look for when you’re buying a gun safe.
Make sure it can be bolted down. The most important thing a burglar needs in order to crack a safe is time. And they won’t get that in your house. That’s why most burglars will physically remove the entire, unopened gun safe to a more secure place, where they have unlimited time to get it open. Even very heavy gun safes can be moved—many burglars bring dollies with them just in case. That’s why it’s crucial to avoid buying a gun safe that can’t be bolted to the floor—preferably a cement floor.
Look for an alarm. Some safes come with automatic alarms that go off the moment someone tries to break into your safe. If your gun safe is bolted down and the thieves decide to take a crack at it in your home, the alarm will put a great deal of pressure on them to get done in a hurry. It could put them off stealing it altogether.
Make sure the housing for the lock is protected. Some burglars will try to drill into your lock in order to get it open. Some safe manufacturers create ingenious ways to keep that drill from hitting the interior housing for the lock. One way involves two thick metal plates with a layer of ball bearings between. When a drill hits the ball bearing layer, it can’t move forward—there’s no friction. The ball bearings often break off the drill bit as well. Other manufacturers design other ways, such as angled plates to deflect the drill bit away from the lock house.
Look for a relocker. This is a device that will cause the lock to close again if it is broken open. It won’t protect the contents of the safe forever, but it is very effective in making the break-in process more complicated—which is a definite deterrent for burglars.
Look for as few welded seams as possible. Amateur thieves will try to break through your lock to get to your guns. But the real pros know that your safe’s weakest points are where the metal has been welded together. To stop burglars from attacking your seams first, look for a safe that has as few exposed seams as possible.
Thicker is better—and not just on the door. Look for a safe with a good metal thickness—no thinner than 10-guage—all around. Many safe manufacturers will produce safes with thick doors but thin bodies. A safe cracker with any skill will know which safes are vulnerable in the body—and will bypass the door to go in through the side or roof of the safe. Make sure your sides, top and bottom are just as thick and strong as your safe’s door.
Hinges should be on the inside. Exposed hinges are another point of attack for anyone trying to break into your safe.
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Look for an alarm. Some safes come with automatic alarms that go off the moment someone tries to break into your safe. If your gun safe is bolted down and the thieves decide to take a crack at it in your home, the alarm will put a great deal of pressure on them to get done in a hurry. It could put them off stealing it altogether.
Make sure the housing for the lock is protected. Some burglars will try to drill into your lock in order to get it open. Some safe manufacturers create ingenious ways to keep that drill from hitting the interior housing for the lock. One way involves two thick metal plates with a layer of ball bearings between. When a drill hits the ball bearing layer, it can’t move forward—there’s no friction. The ball bearings often break off the drill bit as well. Other manufacturers design other ways, such as angled plates to deflect the drill bit away from the lock house.
Look for a relocker. This is a device that will cause the lock to close again if it is broken open. It won’t protect the contents of the safe forever, but it is very effective in making the break-in process more complicated—which is a definite deterrent for burglars.
Look for as few welded seams as possible. Amateur thieves will try to break through your lock to get to your guns. But the real pros know that your safe’s weakest points are where the metal has been welded together. To stop burglars from attacking your seams first, look for a safe that has as few exposed seams as possible.
Thicker is better—and not just on the door. Look for a safe with a good metal thickness—no thinner than 10-guage—all around. Many safe manufacturers will produce safes with thick doors but thin bodies. A safe cracker with any skill will know which safes are vulnerable in the body—and will bypass the door to go in through the side or roof of the safe. Make sure your sides, top and bottom are just as thick and strong as your safe’s door.
Hinges should be on the inside. Exposed hinges are another point of attack for anyone trying to break into your safe.
Many of us have visited a sauna probably at a public facility of some type. You may have enjoyed one at a motel you stayed at, but not really realized the benefits you were receiving at the time. Steam saunas can be very good for your body. Originally, saunas came from Finland and because they were such a sterile environment, many women delivered their babies in a sauna room. The word sauna is referred to as a sweathouse or steam bath and in the Finnish background, this was a family affair. Everyone parti
Make sure the housing for the lock is protected. Some burglars will try to drill into your lock in order to get it open. Some safe manufacturers create ingenious ways to keep that drill from hitting the interior housing for the lock. One way involves two thick metal plates with a layer of ball bearings between. When a drill hits the ball bearing layer, it can’t move forward—there’s no friction. The ball bearings often break off the drill bit as well. Other manufacturers design other ways, such as angled plates to deflect the drill bit away from the lock house.
Look for a relocker. This is a device that will cause the lock to close again if it is broken open. It won’t protect the contents of the safe forever, but it is very effective in making the break-in process more complicated—which is a definite deterrent for burglars.
Look for as few welded seams as possible. Amateur thieves will try to break through your lock to get to your guns. But the real pros know that your safe’s weakest points are where the metal has been welded together. To stop burglars from attacking your seams first, look for a safe that has as few exposed seams as possible.
Thicker is better—and not just on the door. Look for a safe with a good metal thickness—no thinner than 10-guage—all around. Many safe manufacturers will produce safes with thick doors but thin bodies. A safe cracker with any skill will know which safes are vulnerable in the body—and will bypass the door to go in through the side or roof of the safe. Make sure your sides, top and bottom are just as thick and strong as your safe’s door.
Hinges should be on the inside. Exposed hinges are another point of attack for anyone trying to break into your safe.
My secretary turned to me with a look of despair. She was having difficulty with a caller whom an obstinate mule would be hard to outdo. The woman wanted to speak to someone in charge and would not tell anyone else the problem. As she was responding to an advertisement we placed in a top magazine, the prospect of a new client was too good to miss. But, being told she sounded a little cynical, it was with more than a hint of trepidation that I took the telephone."I'm in a rut," said the female voice
Look for a relocker. This is a device that will cause the lock to close again if it is broken open. It won’t protect the contents of the safe forever, but it is very effective in making the break-in process more complicated—which is a definite deterrent for burglars.
Look for as few welded seams as possible. Amateur thieves will try to break through your lock to get to your guns. But the real pros know that your safe’s weakest points are where the metal has been welded together. To stop burglars from attacking your seams first, look for a safe that has as few exposed seams as possible.
Thicker is better—and not just on the door. Look for a safe with a good metal thickness—no thinner than 10-guage—all around. Many safe manufacturers will produce safes with thick doors but thin bodies. A safe cracker with any skill will know which safes are vulnerable in the body—and will bypass the door to go in through the side or roof of the safe. Make sure your sides, top and bottom are just as thick and strong as your safe’s door.
Hinges should be on the inside. Exposed hinges are another point of attack for anyone trying to break into your safe.
I have, in recent years, come to believe that IQ tests are a waste of time for most of us, and a waste of money for some of us. In fact, as a general rule of thumb, if you want to know how stupid you are, check to see if you're paying for an online IQ test.In the course of my short and, let's face it, aimless life, I've taken numerous IQ tests when bored, with scores ranging from the high end of piss-average (109) to the screaming madman genius stage (158), and pretty much everything in between.r a safe that has as few exposed seams as possible.
Thicker is better—and not just on the door. Look for a safe with a good metal thickness—no thinner than 10-guage—all around. Many safe manufacturers will produce safes with thick doors but thin bodies. A safe cracker with any skill will know which safes are vulnerable in the body—and will bypass the door to go in through the side or roof of the safe. Make sure your sides, top and bottom are just as thick and strong as your safe’s door.
Hinges should be on the inside. Exposed hinges are another point of attack for anyone trying to break into your safe. If your hinges can be damaged or removed, the door can be broken into. Many safe manufacturers will advertise super-strong hinges, but no matter how strong a set of hinges are, they’re better off if the thieves can’t get to them.
Look for a warranty. Only buy from a safe manufacturer that has confidence in its product. The best warranties will replace or repair your safe for free if it is damaged by a break-in attempt—although many will ask that you ship it back with a police report.
The bottom line is that you can’t have too much safe. Buy a safe that will accommodate your gun collection as it grows. Most importantly, don’t think cheap when it comes to the safe that’s supposed to protect your valuables—because you’ll get what you pay for. You can’t expect a ?50.00 safe to do a good job protecting ?10,000 worth of firearms—buy a safe that does justice to your collection. If you do, your guns should stay safe and secure.
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