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    hat is a lot of material.
  • Start with the finest grit you can reasonably use. There is no sense spending thirty minutes with 180 when two minutes each with 100, 120 and 180 would do the same job. On the other hand, your cutting may have left a surface the equivalent of 120 grit paper and it wou
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    One of the maxims of wood turning is simply that a good finish makes for a good product. Another is that a good finish requires a good surface. The way for most of us to get that surface is through sanding. Occasionally a good surface is gotten from the tool but that is rare. Unfortunately another facet of turning work is that most if not all wood turners prefer not to sand. I have know only one who did. Therefor it is good to have an established protocol for sanding.
    1. Turn the best surface you can from the tools themselves. Why give yourself extra work by sanding sloppy tool work?
      1. For face plate work learn to use shear scrapers and use them well. In most circumstances a shear scrape will give you the best surface.
      2. If you turn much spindle work, learn to use a skew. It does seem to scare off some people but the finish is unparalleled for all other spindle tools.
    2. If you must leave a blemish on the surface, make sure it is a ridge and not a groove. Ridges sand out much faster than grooves. A ridge is a bit of raised wood easily brought down to the surface level. Grooves require all the wood around them to be lowered to the bottom of the groove and that is a lot of material.
    3. Start with the finest grit you can reasonably use. There is no sense spending thirty minutes with 180 when two minutes each with 100, 120 and 180 would do the same job. On the other hand, your cutting may have left a surface the equivalent of 120 grit paper and it woul
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      of turning work is that most if not all wood turners prefer not to sand. I have know only one who did. Therefor it is good to have an established protocol for sanding.
      1. Turn the best surface you can from the tools themselves. Why give yourself extra work by sanding sloppy tool work?
        1. For face plate work learn to use shear scrapers and use them well. In most circumstances a shear scrape will give you the best surface.
        2. If you turn much spindle work, learn to use a skew. It does seem to scare off some people but the finish is unparalleled for all other spindle tools.
      2. If you must leave a blemish on the surface, make sure it is a ridge and not a groove. Ridges sand out much faster than grooves. A ridge is a bit of raised wood easily brought down to the surface level. Grooves require all the wood around them to be lowered to the bottom of the groove and that is a lot of material.
      3. Start with the finest grit you can reasonably use. There is no sense spending thirty minutes with 180 when two minutes each with 100, 120 and 180 would do the same job. On the other hand, your cutting may have left a surface the equivalent of 120 grit paper and it wou
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      4. For face plate work learn to use shear scrapers and use them well. In most circumstances a shear scrape will give you the best surface.
      5. If you turn much spindle work, learn to use a skew. It does seem to scare off some people but the finish is unparalleled for all other spindle tools.
    4. If you must leave a blemish on the surface, make sure it is a ridge and not a groove. Ridges sand out much faster than grooves. A ridge is a bit of raised wood easily brought down to the surface level. Grooves require all the wood around them to be lowered to the bottom of the groove and that is a lot of material.
    5. Start with the finest grit you can reasonably use. There is no sense spending thirty minutes with 180 when two minutes each with 100, 120 and 180 would do the same job. On the other hand, your cutting may have left a surface the equivalent of 120 grit paper and it wou
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  • If you must leave a blemish on the surface, make sure it is a ridge and not a groove. Ridges sand out much faster than grooves. A ridge is a bit of raised wood easily brought down to the surface level. Grooves require all the wood around them to be lowered to the bottom of the groove and that is a lot of material.
  • Start with the finest grit you can reasonably use. There is no sense spending thirty minutes with 180 when two minutes each with 100, 120 and 180 would do the same job. On the other hand, your cutting may have left a surface the equivalent of 120 grit paper and it wou
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    hat is a lot of material.
  • Start with the finest grit you can reasonably use. There is no sense spending thirty minutes with 180 when two minutes each with 100, 120 and 180 would do the same job. On the other hand, your cutting may have left a surface the equivalent of 120 grit paper and it would be foolish to reduce it to 80.
  • Treat the sandpaper as if it was free. Paper that is filled with wood dust and hardened sap will not cut. It can be cleaned but is seldom worth the time and effort. Dull paper does not cut properly and dull 180 will not cut like 240 no matter what you do. If the paper seems dull or dirty switch to a new surface or a new piece altogether.
  • Use a good brand of paper. Cheap paper will have sanding material with uneven grits and poor patterning. It will cut poorly and leave more work to do. Sometimes grits may vary a bit in their grading from company to company but this is usually not a problem. Quality is far more an issue.
  • Sand with the lathe on when you can but do the last sanding of each grit is the direction of the grain. It may require turning off the lathe to do so.
  • For power sanding face plate work many of us have gone to drill powered sanding disks with hook and loop sanding pads. Be careful not to sand at too high a speed, especially with such a set up. The high speeds can cause heat that will in turn case hardening of the surface of the wood, or small checks to appear. In either scenario the surface will suffer.
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